East meets west

9:01am Thursday 14th February 2008

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Bustling bazaars, unique architecture and invigorating Turkish baths help make Istanbul a delight for all the senses, as JENNY GREEN discovers.

As any Indiana Jones fan will tell you, the ancient city of Constantinople has shaped the world as we know it.

Sandwiched between Europe and Asia, it's one of the oldest remaining cities known to man, and although countless wars have been waged in what is now Turkey's largest city, it's still standing.

These days, however, it goes by the name of Istanbul and despite the fact it straddles two continents - and rather well, at that - it's still one of the world's most criminally underrated cities. Although some attractions like the Blue Mosque and mighty Bosphorus have been well-known for years, the city has by and large been one of Europe's best-kept secrets and has remained relatively unspoilt.

With its handmade carpets, fine food, exotic belly dancers and bustling bazaars, the city is a sensory delight. Istanbul is truly where East meets West. Mosques tower above designer clothing stores, the rich walk alongside the poor, and kebabs are seen as a delicacy. In the three days my partner and I spent in the city, we didn't encounter one other English accent. Bliss.

We decided to start our adventure as soon as we left the airport and jumped on a jam-packed tram to take us into the city centre. Ridiculously cheap, this is the easiest way to get around the football-loving city and there are several stops along the main street. Clearly tourists, we got a few sideward glances from the locals but were amazed by how friendly everyone was. As we tried to make sense of a Turkish map at a station, several people approached us to see if we needed any help. Ashamedly, we clung tightly to our bags and feared the worst but we needn't have worried - the locals were just keen to practise their English, and during our stay, we were stunned by how many kind-hearted people offered their services for nothing more than a smile.

This wasn't the only big difference we noticed. Turkey is primarily a Muslim country and five times a day, the call to prayer is blasted from the turrets of the mosques, as regular as clockwork. While many people continue to mill around and ignore it, devout followers of the faith drop everything to pray. For outsiders like us, the whole thing was quite an alien experience, but it was great to get an insight into another culture - even if the calls did stir us from our slumber each morning.

We stayed at the quaint little Historia Hotel, a stone's throw from all the main attractions. The hotel, in the Sultanahmet district (or Old Town), is a renovated Ottoman-style mansion and was an absolute treasure. Literally lying in the shadows of the Blue Mosque and Haghia Sophia - a large former church and mosque that's well worth a visit if you get the time - we couldn't have been better situated if we'd tried. We were close to the tram stops, some great restaurants and bars, and not far from the Grand Bazaar either, where we picked up a few bargains. The indoor shopping area - one of the largest in the world - is packed full of market stalls selling everything from fake football shirts to the finest hand-woven carpets. You can also pick up some beautiful chunky ceramics and charms to ward off the "evil eye", but keep your wits about you as the vendors will all be vying for your attention.

From our bedroom window, we could see the majestic Blue Mosque, which is one of the world's most impressive religious icons. Built in the 17th century by Sultan Ahmet I, it is the only one of its kind built with six minarets. Normally, a mosque only has four, but the Blue Mosque made it into the history books because of a misunderstanding. Rumour has it that the Sultan asked for a mosque to be built with a minaret made of gold, which is "altin" in Turkish. The architect, however, thought he said "alti", which means six, but the Sultan liked what he did so much, he allowed it to remain. Many people may be disappointed to find that the mosque isn't actually blue either and instead takes its name from the intricate Iznik tiles found inside.

The Basilica Cistern is another one of Istanbul's hidden gems, but sadly many tourists pass by without giving it a second glance. This underground attraction was used to store the city's water supply in Byzantine times and although these days it's rather creepy, it's well worth going to, even if its just to marvel at the construction skills of the ancient Romans. In its heyday, the brick-built cistern could hold up to 80,000 cubic metres of water and was supported by more than 300 pillars, each standing 30ft high. Today, you can wander in and out of the eerily-lit pillars, and James Bond fans might even recognise the attraction from the 1963 film, From Russia With Love.

One other thing you just have to try in Istanbul is an authentic Turkish bath. There are several mini-saunas scattered around the city but we headed to Cemberlitas, one of the oldest and most popular in town. Although men and women have their own sections in the baths, prudes and the self-conscious should approach with caution. You are allowed to keep the odd piece of clothing on but be warned - most people strip off completely to get the best results. After laying on marble slabs in the sauna and trying to cover their modesty, women are roughly washed and massaged but men get a worse deal by having their stresses and strains literally pummelled out of them. My partner even had someone walk up and down his back.

When we both re-emerged, about an hour later, neither of us could say whether we actually enjoyed the baths or whether we just felt a little bit violated, but still it was an experience and well worth a try.

Whether you're a dedicated sightseer or just content to wander around the cobbled streets, Istanbul has something for everyone. So if you're looking for a touch of exotic splendour this year, head east - before everyone else catches on.

FURTHER INFORMATION:
Jenny Green travelled to Istanbul Sabiha Gökçen International Airport with easyJet from London Luton Airport. Prices start from £22.99 one way and £40.98 return (including taxes). She stayed at the Historia Hotel, where rooms start from around £32 per person, per night (including breakfast). A tourist visa is necessary to enter Turkey, available on arrival for £10, payable in cash. For more information visit www.gototurkey.co.uk